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Thursday 5 June 2008

An Abra ride down the Dubai Creek

While in Dubai, one evening we were invited for a cruise down the Dubai creek. Abra was hired for us for 2 hours to enjoy the picturesque view of the city. After a lunch of Dim shims, we set out to the creek, our meeting place, to wait for Abra ride which was schedule for 5pm. We were a big group of twenty five members that included family and friends. For first one hour, half of the group was comfortably seated in the lower deck while rest of us braced ourselves on the upper deck, enjoying the cool breeze and watching the sun set down the creek. We had carried some bread for the birds and it was fun seeing the birds glide down towards our boat and pecking the bread away from our hands. The cool breeze mocked against our faces as we watched the old and the new harbors of Dubai. The Dubai creek is the foundation from which Dubai grew. It originally served as a port for trading vessels plying to and from India, Africa and the Middle East. Today a bit of the old shipping culture still remains. In and around the creek one can see some of the original buildings that have served as customs houses and defense structures. Then there were mosques, palaces and museum that were the important landmarks of Dubai and were dotted on both sides of the creek. there was lot of construction all over city and the sky line was interupted by lines of huge metal cranes After sunset, we joined the rest of the group at lower deck and danced to the rhythm of the music. There was food in plenty and we spend rest of the evening chitchatting and relaxing.

Wednesday 4 June 2008

Cuisine In Lagos

Outing in Lagos meant going out to dine. Be it Chinese, Nigerian or Lebanese, Lagos boasts of its finest cuisine that is exclusive in taste and its presentation. On the road, they would run behind our cars to sell the plantain chips which were very delicious. I would also see the locals roasting corn, yam and fish at every street corner. Eating in restaurants is a treat. Every restaurant had its own specialty and it was quite an experience trying out the various dishes. I loved the Nigerian cuisine that comprised of hot pepper soup (the best that I have ever tasted), Suya (roasted meat on bamboo sticks), Jellof rice (rice cooked in stew) fufu of cassava, Garri (mashed yam) and charcoal roasted fish. The best Nigerian cuisine were served at Ikoyi Club 1938 (a local club) and in Terra Culture (a cultural centre) The Chinese cuisine that I tasted in Lagos was superb. The meat so tender that it just melts in the mouth. There were three main Chinese restaurants that we visited: Jade Place, Pearl Garden and Golden Crown. When we go to a Chinese restaurant, they serve the condiments of onions, ginger and capsicum. We can combine these condiments with chilly sauce and Soya sauce to suit our taste. A hot and sour Peking Chinese soup with crispy rice is the specialty of all Chinese restaurants in Lagos. Other dishes that were on their menu included Sesame Puffs with the filling of minced chicken, fantail prawns, reddish cake, chicken dumplings, crab balls, spring rolls with the fillings of mayonnaise and prawns. (These were real good and just melted in the mouth). There were many Lebanese restaurants spread all over the city and enjoyed by all Indian society. The most famous Lebanese restaurants were ‘Double Four’, 'Oasis' and 'Goodies'. My cousin was mentioning that she had tried Lebanese at many places around the world but nothing could compare with the Lebanese cuisine of Lagos. And she was right. I tried Falafel, Kibbeh (lamb kheema), Hammus, Babaganoush (brinjal dip), Potatoharra, Shovarma (meat roll) Istanbulli Kababs,and Shishtaul (chicken Kabab) Fatoush salad (salad of cucumber, tomato, lettuce and fried bread) Tabouleh (salad of Parsley) garlic sause and Tatashe sauce (chillies sauce, which we would often pack and take it home). I was amused with the menu card in the restaurants. All the restaurants had colorful menu cards with the photograph of the actual presentation of the food that will be served. It would be easy to decide what we could expect on our table and we were never disappointed.

Wednesday 21 May 2008

‘Snow Flower and the Secret Fan’ by Lisa See

While in lagos, I had ample time to catch up with the reading. My niece lent me her book assuring me that it is a good book. and it was. 'Snow Flower and the Secret Fan by Lisa See is the book that I enjoyed reading. This is an extraordinary tale of Chinese Culture in 19th century, set in a remote Hunan county, it is a story of a bond between two girl friends,(the laotang or old same) Snow Flower and Lily that lasts a lifetime. The laotang, Snow Flower, introduces herself at the age of seven to Lily by sending her a silk fan on which she has written a poem in ‘Nu shu’ (meaning women’s writing) a unique language that only Chinese women could communicate secretly away from influence of men. Having a wife with bond feet was a status symbol for men in the 19th century and consequently having bonded feet increased a woman’s chances of marriage into a wealthier household. Women took great pride in their feet which was considered not only beautiful but also their best and most important feature. Snow flower and Lily had their feet bound during the same time and there begins their friendship. They both endure the agony of foot binding and together reflect upon their arranged marriage, shared loneliness and the joys and tragedies of motherhood. Excerpt: Snow Flower My son is here beside me My child bearing pollution days are not over My husband visits in the morning His face is happy My son has eyes that stare at me in question I can’t wait to see you at one month party Please use your best words to put my son on our fan Tell me of your new family I don’t see my husband too often. Do you? I look out the lattice window to yours You are always singing in my heart I think of you everyday Lily Lisa See has triumphed, writing an achingly beautiful story through vivid memoirs of eighty year old woman who reflect on her life during the 19th century and her relationship with her laotang Snow flower. Nu shu is the backdrop over which the whole story is woven. This haunting, beautiful and ineffably sad tale of longing so intense as to be taken beyond the grave, is written in See's characteristically strong prose. She has a keen ear for Lily's yearning, and manages to depict an era and place vastly different from our own Westernized world with grace, acumen and not a little humility. In her capable hands, Lily evolves as a character with whom the reader (of either gender) can feel a deep affinity, for Lily's quest is irrespective of era or geography or even isolation. See makes her audience feel what Lily feels, to identify with her desperate desire to be touched at that place we call "soul," to exorcise the alienation she feels through one passionate connection with another person.

Monday 12 May 2008

Visit to Ghana and Togo

Before I came to Africa, I thought Africa is one big country, just to be recognised as east, west, north or South Arica not realising it as a continent that it is. I see Europe as the group of different countries in Europe and Asia as the group of different countries in Asia and moving from one country to another, I have been exposed to a completely different culture and custom and it is something to be accepted. But Africa…I always thought as a whole one country and that is when I was ridiculed at my ignorance. When I was to go from Nigeria to Ghana and I was to take an international flight and change the currency and take Visa, I was surprised. But like we go from India to Bangkok, we see the difference in culture, language, currency but that’s the difference we don’t find when we travel from one African country to another.there is hardly any difference between two countries in Africa.. So don’t blame…me On the periphery, we don’t see much difference. While Nigeria was more community based and there are huge iron doors everywhere, separating one residential area from another. In Ghana it is more lively and Lome is quite scenic. Apart from this, I didnt see much change in behavior of the natives, nor could I differentiate their culture or style After staying for four days in Acra, we decide to go to neighboring country Togo for few days. We hired a taxi to reach the border and then cross over and take another transport. Never in my life have I ever crossed the border between two countries by foot! and this is what I did this time when i crossed the border between Ghana and Togo. we took a taxi rite upto the border of Ghana and then walk through the nomans' land to a new country Togo. The formalities were similar like one we experience at the international airports, that is immigration, visa and checkpost but we did all that on the road. In the middle of the road! There are ill managed bulidings with the officers sitting on the wooden benches and issuing Visa. It took us one hour to finish all the formalities and then we were in a new country. Immediately after the border, there was a market place followed by the ride from the border to the house, a pleasant ride with a beach all the way lined with rows of coconut trees.

Tuesday 6 May 2008

Market place in Lagos

Markets in Lagos are no different from the markets in other parts of the world except that you need to be prepared to face the heat that is quite cruel. In reality, one should be happy to visit the air-conditioned malls which sell almost everything and shopping in style should be the norm of the day. But if we come all the way to Africa, we are likely to be curious of a local market. After much cajoling, my cousin finally agreed to take us to the local market. First things first, we had to remove all the jewellery, wear cotton clothes, carry minimum of cash and carry lots and lots of water. Surprisingly, markets are clean. There is lots of crowd in this particular market and branded goods are available at throw-a-way prices. There are rows and rows of shops selling the same items at competitive prices. There are many more hawkers seen on the road causing traffic jam ( called ‘goslow’ ) and the market there is called ‘goslow market’ The streets are colourful with women dressed in bold block prints and a head scarf. They greet me with a smile and wishing me a very good afternoon. I want to buy a fish and she quotes astronomical price. “Wat, are you mad? It is too much” I say “No mamma! Price very good. I tell you, you no get this price nowhere.” “No, price too high, I no buy. You my friend? You no like me? You no want to sell? No? “Mamma, price very small, I make it small for you, for you only, I make it small, how mush you pay hah?” After much discussion, I finally get a good bargain.

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