Pinolere Craft Fair in Tenerife

This Sunday, I pass through the steep hills of Orotava that are bordered by deep valleys on both sides and backed by pine clad mountains. The cool and fresh fragrant air is the perfect day to go for shopping in the open space at Pinolere Craft Fair. This is the annual fair held on the steep hills of Orotava and is a celebration of Canarian traditional craftsmanship from across the seven islands and has the most fantastic displays of produce, both modern and traditional, involving palm weaving, wicker basketry, leather work, ceramics, pottery, jewelry making and wood carving. In the stunning beauty of the valley of Pinolere, over 100 stalls surround small thatched houses within which are exhibitions of the evolution of these crafts from the earliest photographs of the islands, to modern interpretations of the art from around the world, like fabulous handbags made from painted palm leaves, crocheted table mats, dolls, clocks made from molded beer bottles and jewelry made from vegetable seeds and lentils. Some of the craftsmen kept adding to their collection of their craft as they sat by their stalls. Dotted about amongst the stalls and the huts, are groups of Islanders in traditional costumes producing hats, baskets and intricate ornamental displays with the sort of dexterity. The women are only too happy to demonstrate their craft as I adjust my camera. On a stage, there are group of musicians, demonstrating traditional Canarian musical instruments through the ages and getting a group of children to reproduce the sound each one makes. The intoxicating smell of cakes assails our nostrils as we saunter past the opening stalls groaning under the weight of sugar, almond and syrup coated ‘dulces’ , sweets and chocolates. Then comes mojos, honeys, jams, herbs and spices, each stall more inviting than the next. I try out several Canarian sauce on small bread toast, several morsels of cheese, cakes, sweets and some sausages. I am back home, tired after climbing different levels, up and down, loaded with things, that I don’t really need.

Bull fighting in Spain

Today in the news channel on TV, I saw a matador getting seriously injured during the bull fighting and I was feeling sorry for him. I have noticed that TV channel in Canarias are no more showing the live coverage of bull fighting on their sports channel. Some years ago, it used to pain me to see the bull fighting events on TV. There was at least one channel on Spanish TV that would show bull fighting on its sports channel regularly. But last year Spain's public broadcaster, TVE, announced it was scrapping live coverage of bullfights for the first time ever, deeming them unsuitable for younger viewers. Thank God for that! Bull fighting seems to be the favourite sport amongst the Spanish people with tourist joining in this gory sport. While the bull is asking for mercy, the distinctly well-heeled members of the crowd shade themselves in white bowler hats sucking on cigars and merrily eating peanuts. As the matador proves his machismo, there is no talk of regional domination or cruelty; just a stunning chorus of ''ole¨ How do they cheer at the sight of blood? This is the most ritualised slaughter. There is unfair advantage of the matador, with bulls frequently given tranquillisers and laxatives to sedate them before fights, and petroleum jelly sometimes rubbed into the animals' eyes to hamper vision. The inevitable death is almost never swift, with only the most skilful matadors able to kill the bull with one thrust of the sword. You see the corrida (as it is called) with three distinct stages, each time announced by trumpet sound. The participants first enter the arena in a parade to salute the presiding dignitary, accompanied by band music. In traditional corrida, there are three matadores, each fight two bulls, Each matador has six assistants — two picadores ("lancers") mounted on horseback, three banderilleros ("flagmen"), and a mozo de espada ("sword page"). Collectively they comprise a cuadrilla ("entourage"). In first stage, the matadors confronts the bull, observes its behaviour and picador stabs a mound of muscle on the bull's neck, leading to the animal's first loss of blood In the next stage, the three banderilleros, each attempt to plant two razor sharp barbed sticks on the bull's flanks, ideally as close as possible to the wound where the picador drew first blood. In the final stage, the matador re-enters the ring alone with a small red cape and a sword. He uses his cape to attract the bull in a series of passes, both demonstrating his control over it and risking his life by getting especially close to it. He manoeuvres the bull into a position to stab it between the shoulder blades and through the aorta or heart. If he succeeds, you see the helpless bull crumble down on its knees, almost lifeless and sometimes it the unlucky matador who is tossed out of control and knocked on the ground. The cruelty and blood are the end products of this sport. While the bullfight is still exempt from Spain's anti-animal cruelty laws, recent developments suggest the anti-corrida movement may be gaining the upper hand. Bullfighting has been struggling to attract younger fans for years, and opponents hope less media coverage will lead to the sport's eventual extinction. It is an old debate: tradition versus modernity, culture versus cruelty. The low attendance of the younger generation at the arena is a good sign; bull fighting in the modern society will have no future.

Baile De Mago...A Magic Dance

In Canary Islands, the summer months, June, July, August are the months of Fiesta and Siesta. Canarians are happy people and you can see the aura of happiness everywhere. Throughout the summer, different parts of the island have festivals that exhibit the typical Canarian food, have live cultural shows and have mini fairs where they exhibit the typical Canarian art work. During late evening, you see them dressed in the traditional ´Mago´ dress and dancing together in the dance called ´Baila de Mago´ (Magic dance). There is a popular song that is favoured amongst Canarians,with beautiful lyrics : Con el baile del mago Haces tú lo que yo hago Giras tú la cadera Dando vuelta y ya está Con un poco de magia Un hechizo tú lanzas Y al pobre de al lado En sapo convertirás This Saturday, ´Baile de Mago´ was organised at our club in Icod. The criteria for attending and participating in this event is that you have to be dressed in the traditional dress. The club was dressed for the festival with seating arrangement all around the pool.Front side was reserved for dancing and orchestra, the remaining three sides of the pool had long rectangular tables that could accomodate a group of twenty people. The food that was served was typical Canarias that included croquets, roast chicken, salads, tortilla, French fries and many more varieties of food. Some families had brought extra food to share with their friends. At 11pm, the orchestra started and the people started leaving their table to go to dance floor to dance to the music. and the music played... Si a veces sientes que tú estás triste, no hay problema, lo olvidarás Con este juego que ahora comienza, todo lo malo desaparecerá Adiós a las penas, adiós problemas, si ya estás listo, tú puedes jugar En una línea todos se paran y así formados ya brincarán Brinca pa’un lado, brinca pa’l otro Da media vuelta y listo estás And for next five hours they did forget their problems and pains and danced, sometimes in circles, sometimes in pairs, coming to their tables only to refresh themselves with a glass of wine or munching the assorted fruits and tapas that did their rounds throughout the event. During the wee hours of morning, after a cup of warm coffee, they returned home to snooze away the blues.

Walking down the streets in Puerto de la Cruz

This week end I decided to pass my week-end with my niece at Puerto de la Cruz, which is on the north of the island about 20 minutes away from Buen Paso where I am staying. Going to Puerto de la Cruz and sitting indoors is not a good idea. So even though I am still afraid to walk freely with a broken arm, my niece insisted that we go for a short walk down the street. Puerto de la Cruz is bustling with activity. There are people everywhere. Narrow streets of the Old Town, packed with colonial architecture, make walking a safer bet than driving. The city is packed with tourist during this month of August. .There are cafes and restaurants in every street that has no traffic or walking plazas. The stores display their article outside the shops and attract the passer-by. This is a town of two halves. To the west of Plaza del Charco, whitewashed houses and cobbled lanes reflect the serenity of years gone by. Whilst to the east, the excited chatter of holidaymakers reverberates around the labyrinth of cafés and restaurants. Just a short walk in any direction, and I am surrounded by quaint stores that carry local handicrafts, cafes and bars, produce stores (the bananas are absolutely delicious), fantastic wine stores and the old harbor. San Telmo is a neighbourhood that bridges old Puerto to new Puerto. That "bridge", Paseo San Telmo, is dense with tourists, stores, gelato shops, and restaurants. The hotel lined streets and avenues behind the walkway reach out like arms, encouraging travellers to rest. We walked, rested for coffee and pastries, walked again, stopped for hamburgers and sandwiches, walked the bridge through San Thelmo, resting a while, watching the world pass by. The short evening walk lasted four hours actually and was not tiring at all.

Poetry and Story telling Performance.....

Last evening, I was invited for music, poetry and story-telling performance by a famous group of Tenerife called Sol Y Sombra. After dinner, we went to ´´Casa de Los Caceres´´ which is a heritage building, in Icod de Los Vinos, made of wood and stones. During day, there are many art exhibitions held in this place which exhibits the art and culture of Canarias. The show was held in the patio of this cultural centre and we were greeted with a glass of iced-gin tonic with basil leaves, and we sat there under the open skies, sipping the drink and watching the show. The patio, which is in the centre of the building, is surrounded by wooden windows of all the exhibit rooms, and it was from one of those windows, that we heard the musical voice of a singer, we looked up and saw him move from one window to another with a candle in his hand, his song resonating the patio as he walked down the steps behind the patio and he finally emerged the patio to present the show. The mood was set. There were musicians playing guitar/piano and the two artists who kept us captivated with their songs, poems and animated stories. There was a good interaction between the live music and the song. After each performance, the actors and musicians kissed each other expressing their gratitude and there was loud applause. The audience clearly mesmerised, wanted as many story telling performances as they could get. One could see that each artist performed with great passion, showing stunning melodic creativity and an ever fertile imagination. Although I am not too fluent in my Spanish, I could still follow the story from their powerful expressions. Such was the show that has clung to my memory and I am still relishing the tunes…..

Visiting Buena Vista

I have been under self imposed curfew for the simple reason that I want to take no risk in hurting myself with one more fall. It ain´´t easy scrambling about, trying to do all jobs with just one left hand, you know. I am spending most of my time watching Canarian news on TV which is quite interesting, but sometimes my brother does take me for long drives through the city. Like the other day he drove me up to Buena Vista, which is about 30 minutes up north of my house in Buen Paso. It is located in the extreme northeast of Tenerife, next to the Teno Mountain range (natural area protected within the category of rural park). This place is visited mainly by tourist who enjoy Golf and by locals who enjoy fishing. This area has mild climate all year round. We drove via Icod de los Vinos driving through Garchico, up Los silos, passing though banana plantations and reached the beautiful spot at Beuna Vista. The golf park occupied a vast area and is mostly visited by German tourist who have vacation houses nearby. I envied those three women friends who had come to fish with buckets and fishing rods. They had prohably spend a long day at the sea, sitting on the rock, sharing gossip and waiting for the fish. they looked quite pleased with many fishes in their bucket and I wished if i could befriend them and enjoy the dinner of fish and chips. There was a nice, flowers hedged path leading towards the beach, with breeze so strong that it is impossible to walk alone. The lovely Canarian restuarant, at the foot of the beach, was quite empty, eagerly awaiting for busy week-ends....