MP Diaries – Part 16 – Indore

Indore - one of the cleanest city of India, is the last stop of my MP tour. The charm of the city lies in rich cultural heritage preserved over the years. 

We visited Kanch ka Mandir, a beautiful Jain temple where I almost lost my balance on the shiny floor. There are intricate glass mosaic everywhere..on the ceiling, on the walls, on doors and even on the ground. I was fortunate to visit the temple during prayers time. My friend (who was with me) is Jain, so she knew all the rituals that are performed during the prayers. The temple is renowned for the several glass paintings and sculptures placed inside the temple. Dating back to the Holkar dynasty, this was built in 1903 by one of India’s industrial pioneers, Seth Hukumchand Jain. The Kanch Mandir is popular for its stunning architecture and grand celebrations held during Jain festivals.

Next we went to see the Lal Bagh Palace, which dates back to Indore’s 19th-century Holkar dynasty. The palace was very tastefully done with Greek paintings on the ceiling and beautiful oil paintings in large spacious rooms. It even had jacuzzi in one of the bathrooms. I envied the women who had lived in these palaces, they must have had a great taste, because there was comfort and style in the interiors of all rooms. The Indian art historian KK Chakravarty wrote that the palace is: 'A blend of Italian villa, French Chateau, traditional motifs and modern conveniences, the Lal Bagh Palace is indeed a statement of riotous Victorian eclecticism not surprising, perhaps, for a ruler who supported the British.'

Our next stop was at Central Museum, The Parmar culture has originated here in Madhya Pradesh and this museum displays lots of statues that are carved out in the style. Most of the statues depicted the Hindu God Lord Shiva and Harihara, Goddess Parvati in many different poses. These belonged to the 11th and the 12th centuries. Then there were art-facts, tools and utensils on display that were used in that era. There was a nice courtyard in the centre of the museum that gave good vibrations with fresh air and sunlight. 

Since we were travelling with Kesari tours, the food was totally arranged by them, throughout our journey. They had their own home chefs who would cook food for us. But at Indore, the home chefs were sent off and we were enjoying the big spread of meals at the hotel where we were staying. But I love to try the street food of every place that I visit and I was deprived throughout our trip.(the organisers were afraid that we would fall sick and therefore they discouraged us from eating street food) 

So, on last day, we sneak out, on our own, to walk down the city streets and enjoy the local cuisine. The Dal Kachoris and Dahi Wadas were amazing and we even picked up for our train journey.

That brings me to the end of my MP tour. Returned back by train from Indore to Mumbai with bags full of memories to last me for lifetime.

MP Diaries Part 15 Mandu

We have been on road trip for quite some time now, and am beginning to appreciate this part of India. MP is full of rich history and ancient architecture. Most of it has been reduced to ruins or is neglected.  There are beautiful palaces and nature is abundant, but hardly any tourist.  The roads are bad and infrastructure is also poor.

 After a long drive, we enter Mando through four narrow stone wall gates with walled enclosures and bastions. The architectural beauty starts right away, although it is surrounded by yellowed grass and dried pits. I am told that this place comes alive during rainy season when river gets filled up with water and there is greenery everywhere.

 

We reached our first stop at Jahaz Mahal. Outside the gates, there are much needed nimbu pani, roasted corn and other vendors.  I am fascinated with a strange looking fruit. Its Baobab, (I am told) the famous Khusrani Imli (tamarind) of Mandu. There are many Baobab trees found in the whole of village. I buy one and open the hard skin to reveal while colour flesh, sour and tangy core. It tastes good.

 

We enter the Jahaz Mahal to the splendour of the architecture. It is noted for its romantic beauty. It looks like a large ship between waters of the Munja and Kapur tanks. It is said that 500 young and beautiful Turkish females in men’s clothes and equal number of armed and uniformed Abyssinian females, used to stand as guards to its right and left sides respectively.

 

At the entrance there is a beautifully carved wooden door.

 

 

We enter the stone gates to series of halls separated by corridors, having narrow rooms at the extreme ends. The view is breath-taking, terrace had projecting pavilions on each sides and hollow islet that must have served as pools.Mughal emperor Jahangir wrote in his memoirs about the wonderful assembly organised on the terrace where they hosted lavish parties, hosted by his wife Noor Jahan, at which guests over indulged in drunken revelry.

The garden and the lake surrounding the palace is well maintained (Thank God) on the right side there is Taveli Mahal. Once upon a time, Taveli Mahal was used as a stable and a guard room. Today it houses a small museum of the Archaeological Survey of India exhibiting artefacts dating from 11^th century found inside the fort and painting as well.

 

I, as usual, always tired of walking, so I sat inside the palace and dreamt of those times when this palace must have come alive with lights of hundred lamps, reflecting on the water perhaps, while my friends go about exploring the whole place.

The guide had lots of stories to tell, mainly about Rani Roopmati, who was pretty poetess and an artist. The story of Roopmati’s eternal love for Baz Bahadur and their musical soirees linger over the Rewa Kund group of Monuments. There was a huge flight of steps leading up to the Roopmati’s pavilion, which I did not take so I missed the architectural beauty of this baradari structure that had twelve doors designed to allow free flow of air.  Also missed the view from the top.

 

We next went to visit Baz Bahudur palace that had beautiful manicured garden and a spacious courtyard encircled by halls. They are known for their outstanding acoustic features and for hosting performance by dancers and other artistes.

 

Jamma masjid was our last stop at Mandu. The interior of the entrance porch has beautiful Jali (stone lattice) screen on the sides above which are fine bands of blue enamel tiles. There is a huge prayer hall with many arches and pillars that support the ceiling of three large domes and fifty eight smaller domes.

Opposite Jamma Masjid was an interesting art shop selling local products.

 

 After lunch we headed back to Indore.

To be continued……

MPdiaries Part 2..Gwalior

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After a long night journey in the train-Punjab Mail, we reach Gwalior at 4pm. The tour operators come to receive us from the station and we are to stay at  Hotel Landmark. There is lot of excitement, we go to each others room to compare the comfort and we discover that some have good rooms and some are average. Our (I shared room with my friend) room is average. After freshening up, we go to the dining hall that is behind the building. We meet other members of the group over the short introduction. There are about 48 people who will travel with us..28 members have taken 7days tour and 22 members will be taking 15days tour with us. We have two buses.

The next day we do sightseeing.

If I were to just see the picture of Gwalior fort, I would never dare to explore it..I am afraid of steep steps and long treks..but somehow the curiosity got better of me and I followed my friends, walking slowly and went ahead to admire the architecture of this beautiful fort that is two miles long and 35 feet high. We had a guide with us who told us interesting stories as he took us around the fort, showing us the music rooms, library, entertainment lawn and many other rooms..The carvings and the designs on the walls had significance of art and culture....unfortunately, the mirrors that gave the fort its beauty are not there anymore but it indeed fits its description as "The pearl amongst the fortresses of Hind" 

Cross posted from my Facebook timeline

One room I was specially impressed was the music room that had lattice walls. The queens sat behind the walls and watched the performance of the musicians and dancers, but the musicians were not allowed to look up to have any eye contact with  the women. 

We spend two hours exploring the fort, each room very artistically done with engraving of animals, flowers and geometrical designs…Next we drove through busy street to go to Tansen tomb.

Gwalior is blessed with musicians. It is believed that even when a child cries..there is music in his voice .Remember Tansen? The great musician of Mughal era? His body rests here surrounded by architectrual structure with hexagonal pillars in four corners. The building is square, topped by a square dome with blue ceramic tiles. The tomb walls have intricate carvings with latticework. There was a tamarind tree closer to Tansen's tombs. We plucked the sour leaves to clear our throat and then tried to sing classical like Tansen...we still couldn't match his talent...but at least we tried....

Cross posted from my Facebook profile.

We came to the hotel for lunch (cooked for the group) and then left again the evening to Jal Vilas Palace

The huge Jai Vilas palace had 423 rooms..how they kept it sparkling clean is anybody's guess but for fitness freak, just walking inside the palace can cover 10,000 steps. I saw only 25 rooms that had branded furniture and women wore gold embroidered clothes that we now see successful ppl wearing during weddings. There was a big indoor swimming pool with diving board, a big banquet hall with silver train that carried hard drinks for the guest and 2 huge crystal chandlers that are supposed be the biggest in the world.. it is the 19th century residence cum museum, it has splendid architecture and beautiful curios that belonged to Mughal Emperors and legendary Laxmibai of Jhansi. Unfortunately there was no lift in such a huge palace and climbing up and down to visit different rooms was quite challenging for me. 

Cross posted from Facebook timeline

We were back by 7pm, but I was quite tired. I came back to the room to read a book, while my friends went to explore the city, to do some shopping and some went to see Jain temple of the city.