While Indians celebrate ‘The
Independence day’ on 15th August, People in Tenerife celebrate ‘Dia
de la Candelaria’
Thousands of pilgrims arrive on the
eastern coast of Tenerife at Candelaria to visit the Basilica that houses the
statue of Black Madonna. Many people spend the night on the roads on their
route that leads them to this town to pay their tribute to their Patron Saint.
The festivals in the town of Candelaria
are rich in religion and popular fervor, closely linked to five centuries of
faith, belief and love for the Virgin.
Last time I couldn’t go to
Candelaria, but instead went for a drive up to the mountains closer to my house
and met up with the trekkers who were on their way to the church.
Many people trek through the steep beaten path of hills, trees and shrubs. There are signs-boards at regular intervals directing the proper route to follow. There is one meeting point on the route where different groups from different parts of the island meet. This point offers the most beautiful panoramic view of the island. It is the leisure place, they share their eats and drinks and let their hair down.
On 15th August there is a
big celebration at the church. Since I hate crowded places, I decided to go few
days before the real festival.
The road leading to church is a
walking plaza. There are shops on either sides of the road selling souvenir
articles, flowers, clothes; there are many small cafes, bars and patisseries
that churn the hunger pangs and make me drool.
All the houses overlooking the
road have flags and pictures of their deity decorated on their balcony. The
street is decorated with colorful streamers, flags, pictures of Virgin Mary and
blinking lights.
The road is neatly tiled, opening to a large open space that
has a line-up of bronze statues (running parallel to the sea wall) of Guanche
leaders, the original inhabitants of Tenerife overlooking the huge plaza.
The
square is dominated by the Basilica de ‘Nuestra Senora de Candelaria’, built to
house the famous statue of the Virgin and this is the site that is popular
annual pilgrimage.
Basilica de ‘Nuestra Senora de
Candleria’ was built to house the famous statue of Black Madonna that appeared
on the beach in 1312 and was found by two Guanches. The current statue inside
the church is the replica of the original one that was swept away by tidal wave
in 1826, after surviving a fire that ravaged the church.
Indians in Tenerife believe it to be
the reincarnation of Goddess Devi and normally come to this church to offer
their prayers during Navratas and during other Indian festivals.
Inside the church, it is very
peaceful. During the festival, the statue is placed out on the altar for full
view. It is the magnificent building with high walls and intricately designed
ceiling, stained glass windows depicting the figurines, flowers and abstract
designs. Every wall emotes a feeling of bliss. In the inner room, there is a smaller
alter dominated by a huge painting of the last supper.
Devotees offer flowers, as they enter
the church, placing them in the buckets of water, lined up against the wall,
they then walk to the inner rooms, which is filled with electric candles, you
insert a coins to light the candle. This is the new addition to the church
because initially there used be hundreds of wax candles burning all day and the
room used to be very dark because of the smoke. I inserted one Euro in the slot
and three candles lit up.
After spending fifteen minutes inside
the church, we are out in the square. There is a fountain outside the church,
where people used to throw a coin in the small pond surrounding it and make a wish.
Unfortunately, Tenerife is undergoing recession, probably saving on light and water, I think, hence most of the fountains in the city are dry
and this one was too.
There was lot of activity at the
plaza. A big stage was being organized in the center of the plaza for the big day. There
will be folklore music and dance till late hours after the mass on the
celebration day.
We walk behind the church, on the
promenade along the stone wall. The angry waves make a roaring sounds as they approach the shore in groups
with rising crest, and splash against the shore, sending the spray of showers, two meters up in the air. There were some very old houses behind the church and a big cave
at the end of the path.
We spend one hour walking along the shore, watching the angry crest
and trough of waves, its splashing against the seawall and I squeal with joy whenever I feel the sprinklers against my face.
The beach on the other side of the
path has black sand and is not safe for swimming in these rough waters,
nevertheless, it does not stop tourists from braving the waves and enjoy few
moments of swim.
The best part of the visit is to sit
in those restaurants facing the seawall and enjoying the seafood which most of these
restaurants specialize.