Everyone who visits India makes at least one visit
to the temples or mosque. Spirituality is so strongly observed that even an
atheist is confused. It is difficult to explain about the crowd standing in long
queue for six hours just to get thirty seconds glimpse of the idol inside the
temple, of offering garlands and coconuts which are recycled and resold at
stalls outside the temple, of eating oily and sweet Prasad even though the
health does not permit. To an atheist, temples are just architectural monuments
to be enjoyed for their carvings on pillars and ceiling, but to a devotee, it’s
a place where their prayers can be answered, it’s the place where they can find
peace and compassion.
Whatever the reason, the temple devoted to Venkateswara
at Tirumala is believed to be one of the richest pilgrimage center in India.
The temple is visited by about 50,000 to 100,000 pilgrims daily, while on
special occasions and festivals like the annual Brahmotsavam, the number of
pilgrims shoots up to 500,000, making it the most-visited holy place in the
world. The popularity of this temple is so high that they have made replica of
this temple in different parts of India.
We started from Pune early morning; it was warm and
sunny day. Driving through the crowded traffic took a long time; we finally
touch the express highway for a pleasant drive through vast fields spread for
miles. The plants and trees on route were yellow and light green, family
informed me that in rainy season the fields come alive, with lots of greenery
and waterfalls on hills. It makes a pleasant drive.
After a long drive of more than 100 minutes, we
finally drove through dirt part to reach the beautiful Balaji temple.
You are suddenly transferred to a different world
as soon as you enter the gates. The lawns are manicured, the cleanliness is
maintained, against the backdrop of the hills, the temple stand proud and
prominent, mimicked in wood and painted in grey oil paint. The sculpted spire
over the sanctum sanctorum is painted yellow to pay obeisance to the gold spire
of Tirumala-Tirupati temple.
On special request from authorities, we were allowed
to bring our car closer to the temple; we left our slippers in the car and
walked on the red carpet into the temple. No photography is allowed and we were
asked to deposit our gadgets with the security.
Inside the big iron carved gates, was a gold temple.
Family informs me that it is exact replica of the original temple. Even the
black stone and other building material have been brought from Tamil Nadu, The
construction of the temple went on from 1996 to 2003. The prayers and
procession also take place on festivals. The priests who perform the puja also
hail from same families as those of the original temple. One of the most
important offering in this temple, is the ‘Thulabharam’. In Thulabaram ritual,
a devotee sits on a pan of a weighing balance and other pan is filled with
materials greater than the weight of devotee. Devotees usually offer sugar,
jiggery, holy basil leaves, banana, gold coins; this is mostly performed with
newborn babies. We took ‘parikarma’ around the temple. There were carvings on the
walls and paintings in bright colors on the ceiling. Deities were housed in
small cubicles where people offered their prayers. At the end of the round, big
size laddoo was distributed to every visitor.
We finished seeing the temple in 15 minutes, family
tells me that they spend many hours doing parikarma at Tirupati, and they have
to pay extra cash to cut short their queue or enter from the back entrance.
The unique ritual of tonsuring of ones head is also
done here at temple premises and I did see many people donate their hair in
exchange for the blessings of the Lord. The collected hair is publicly
auctioned to international buyers from time to time for cosmetic use and hair
extensions.
On our way back, the ride was picnic style,
feasting on figs, guava,