MPdiaries Part 6. Jabalpur

We spend lot of time on road trip all over MP, but bus journey was not boring. I am reminded of the movie ‘Bombay to Goa’ wherein you meet all kinds of people. Some are dozing, some fast asleep, some noisy, some want to sing, some want to eat. My friends spent most of their journey playing cards…just three of them across the aisle, they would play different games..it was a good time pass for them. I was occupying the front seat and could see the road from the glass window in front of me. I had made myself comfortable by tucking cushions behind my back and a shawl over my legs. I enjoyed the journey watching cities pass by.

After a long journey from the jungles of Bandaravagarh, we reached Jabalpur. We checked into Rishi Regency. It was quite a comfortable hotel with separate twin beds.

I was glad that the weather in #Jabalpur was pleasant, so i didn't mind climbing down 72 step to go for a boat ride at #BhedaGhat And what a ride it was! Surrounded by dark green water on all sides and the sun setting behind the marble stones.(that looked like Meccana's gold). We rowed on calm waters of Narmada river.

Our ferryman was an interesting person..he had humour and talent to speak in rhymes mixing Hindi and English ....."Water is deep,.marble stones on all sides, left or right only suicide is allowed

There were some kids standing at the top of cliff willing to dive and reach our boat for a fee of Rs50. The ride was very enjoyable. However, climbing up the 72 steps was quite a challenge......

At #Jabalpur, we walked through the narrow alley towards #Duandharwaterfalls. The lane is laced on both sides with shops selling handicraft items and articles made of pure marble. We walked across small alleys with shops selling artifacts, marble statues, incense stick holders, marble turtles, vases and everything that can be made with marble. You can even get your names inscribed on marble designs. Turtles seem to be the favorites they were designed in various forms and materials. There were some beautiful marble toys that I have never seen anywhere else in India. The lane seemed endless, stretched over more than a kilometre. I walked halfway but decided to take a cable car instead. This was the best option and the view from top was splendid. It seemed like a miniature of Niagara falls. The waters of Narmada river fall over glittering marble rocks with such force that it leaves you amazed at the beauty of the nature...

While all our group members had walked down for one and half kilometre to experience the waterfall, we were glad that we took a ride in the cable car and watched from the top. Of course, had we walked down closer to the waters, we could have wet our feet and enjoyed the spray on our faces, but then you cannot get everything…

To be continued…..

MPdiaries Part 5. Bhandarvagarh

After driving all day, we reached Bhandarvagarh late evening. I couldn’t see anything, but a narrow road and thick bushes on either side of the road. It seemed like a ghostly town with not a person in sight. The bus moved slowly  over uneven mud road till we reached the beautiful resort called Mogli Resort. We were to stay in the middle of the jungle. I was quite impressed with the rooms, it was large and spacious with all the comfort one could ask for. There was a big open ground surrounding all the villas and a dining hall across our room.

Early morning 6am, we set out for a long drive into the deep forest for jungle safari at Bandhavgarh National Park in an open jeep.

The forest is spread over1536 kms. I was hoping to see Bengal Tigers (for which this park is famous for) ..but was not lucky to spot any. The professional photographers wait for hours by the pond waiting for thirsty animal to come into their focus but we waited only for 20 minutes..then drove around for nearly five hours.

However I did spot deer at several spots..they ran swiftly behind the trees. The ride was pleasant through this tropical forest with lovely fragrance of leaves and the beautiful chirping of birds.

Evening at Bandhavagarh was spent playing group games. Since our group was divided into two groups, one group for 15days tours and second group for 7days tour. This was the last day for group doing 7days tour. We had evening of games..childish but fun…just being alert in pronouncing certain words….the person who was most alert was the winner, the distracted ones faltered. I had no interest in playing any such games but enjoyed distracting the players with my comments. till all my friends dropped out.

We were seated at open ground. It was getting chilly. Bonfire was lit, we sat around it in smaller groups and we began to relax as the warmth touch our faces and feet.

Later part of the evening was spent enjoying the traditional folk dance of MP called karma Nach. These dances are the reflection of rich heritage culture of the state. The dancers were dressed in vibrant colorful costumes. The women had their head covered and danced gracefully in rhythm with slow hand movements. Men had sticks in their hand striking the sticks of the persons on their sides and they all moved in circles adding the dramatic rhythm. They also performed acrobatic dance. Such dances are normally performed during festivals to celebrate the rich harvest by the natives of Madhya Pradesh.. 

Cross posted on my FB

It was the most relaxing evening spent during this trip.

MPdiaries Part 4....Khajuraho

We reached late evening at Khajuraho and checked into the hotel- Khajuraho Temple View. There was a beautiful view of lake outside the hotel and on the other side of the lake were the Khajuraho temples.

Early morning we set out to visit the temples. Day was spent visiting the monuments of Hindu and Jain temples.

First we headed towards Jain temple. The sadhvi dressed in white, with a peacock feather whisk, a metal water pot and scripture roamed barefoot around the campus.

There were hymn playing in the temples and you could hear them loud even if you did not enter the temples. All temples had high steps with no railing support to climb up. I needed help each time I wished to climb those steps

These temples are considered as the UNESCO World Heritage site.  There are about 22 temples in the campus. These are built of sandstones and are famous for their nagara architectural symbolism and their erotic sculptures. There were about 84 postures of  erotic sculptures. We were asked to listen to the guide to understand the legends and the stories hidden behind these sculptures. There were beautiful carvings around the walls of the temples and I stood there admiring the art and workmanship of the artist. .. some sculptures depict the tantric activity in sex, some the lifestyles and the cultural history of the people that lived in that era. They told the story of how people spend their time,, men hunting and travelling, women grooming and entertaining.  There were apsaras elegantly dressed in finery and jewels, with mirror in their hand, applying kohl in their eyes or henna in their hair.

It tells the story of how people tried to keep the balance between their worldly pleasure and their spiritual life. Then there are sculptures of musicians, painters, army, animals, instruments used for different purpose, arm weapons, vehicles, transport and also flowers mainly lotus. Every God had their own vehicle. Just like Ganesha has mouse as its vehicle,  Kaam God (the God of passion) has parrot as vehicle Goddess Laxmi..wife of Vishnu has owl as her vehicle, Goddess Saraswati has a swan.

You can see the Artists' imagination in carving out the figures with profound expressions, such that, they actually speak to you. . I would have loved to go through all 22 temples but I needed help to climb those large stone steps. I wish they would install strong railings for support or maybe an escalator?

We stopped to have coffee at the café in the park and then went for shopping. Had a relaxing afternoon playing cards in the common room. 

In the evening we went to see the light and sound show narrated by Amitabh Bacchan.

MPdiaries Part 3..Orchha

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The day was spent moving from Gwalior to Khajuraho. On our route, we stopped at Jhansi and Orchha. The bus was comfortable but the roads were bad. Most of the roads are being redeveloped, There is construction everywhere to built better roads, some of the cities of MP have plans to become smart cities.  On our way, we stopped at Jhansi ro see the Jhansi fort. There was some rally and the road was blocked.

Many of them walked up to the palace to have a dekho, but I was in no mood to climb the steep hill, therefore I just waited in the bus. However the guide came to the bus to tell me the story of Rani Laxmibai of Jhansi. He said that she married at the age of 11years, was widowed by 22years and died at 27yrs. It is amazing that she accomplished so much in such a short life. Later, my friends told me about the palace and the artifacts they saw at the museum and that I had missed it.

Our next stop was at Orchha. We stopped to visit Jahangir Palace and Raj Praveen Mahal. We crossed a long bridge to enter the huge wooden gate leading to the stone and mud steep path.

I needed help to navigate, specially to walk up the stairs that had no railings. We entered a large courtyard, that was surrounded by smaller rooms. Only two rooms had beautiful paintings on the walls and on the ceilings (belonging to the  king and the queen). Raj Mahal was occupied back then (in another century) by king and his six wives. However only the senior most queen enjoyed all the privileges, she had large room with beautiful painting, while others had just bare bedrooms.

There were stone stairways leading up to top floors and then to the terrace. The guide told us that queens spend  most of their time in their room, or on the  terrace or in the courtyards. Their parameters of movement was restricted to only inside the palace. (how lonely their life must have been, sometimes I wonder about that)

We climbed more steps to reach Jahangir Palace. The architecture is beautiful, with hanging balconies and turquoise blue tiles, built in 17^th century as a warm reception to Jahangir, but climbing more steps to see the interior of the palace was not on my list.

The left side of the building was under redevelopment. It was being converted into a hotel. Nice way to monetise on these artistic building, which,  otherwise would stand neglected. 

Luckily I saw some cars parked in the driveway, so I discovered that there was no need to climb down those steps to reach the bus that was parked at quite a distance. I called up the auto service and took a ride back.

We stopped at the roadside for freshly brewed tea, that was very refreshing and then drove towards Khajuraho

To be continued………..